Women were full of gussets, garters, corsets, whalebones, plackets, false hair, and brassières. When she appeared on the Paris horizon before the war, the Gould girls, then all the rage, were brushing the pelouse at Longchamp with the trailing flounces of their silken skirts the tiresome tiered train of the Duchesse d’Albe swept clean the steps of the Opéra when she descended on gala nights and, deeper but brighter in the social scale, the complicated blue froufrou petticoats and stiff blue-satin stays of the lovely Liane de Pougy were, if uncomfortable for her, matters of ecstasy to everyone else. Gabrielle Chanel is a dressmaker who grew rich launching the genre pauvre.
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